Slot Car Track Router Bit
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old02-09-2010, 04:14 PMThread Starter
Note the center pin is designed to ride in a slot cut using another router bit (i.e. The center pin on this bit will NOT route/cut the slot). The router bit has a 1/4' diameter shaft. Ezel online subtitrat in romana. We start with a high-quality, double-fluted carbide router bit. When routing a straight, the slot is offset from the edge of the track by the distance from the router bit to the edge of the bearings. Slot Spacing, 6 to 8 cars. AC2Car tracks designed to run 6 cars have two groups of 3 slots in each group. That’s 6 cars racing on a track only 9 3/4″ wide. And, tracks running 8 cars have two groups of 4 slots on either side of the road. That’s 8 cars racing on a track that is only 11 1/2″ wide.
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When routing a track, once the first slot is cut (by whatever method you use), you can then use that slot as a guide to make all the subsequent slots. In order to do that, you need to make a jig.
I have experimented with a small simple oval. I made my first slot then created a jig with two small, cutoff nails that would ride in the previous slot and guide my router in making the next slot. For the most part, it worked.
I discovered that the first pin/nail in the jig must be even with the router bit. By this I mean if the slots are to be 2' apart, on my jig I draw a straight line 2' from the center of the router bit. I then put the first pin/nail on that line exactly 2' away from the bit. The second pin/nail must also go on this line, but it will be a little further away from the bit. It needs to be close to the first pin/nail; the further they are apart, the more squeezed the lanes will become in the turns; plus the pins will jam in the slot more frequently as the distance between them increases. Both pins will ride in the previous slot, with the second pin (the one further from the bit) trailing behind the cut.
This is all well and good. However, the one problem I seem to be having is the pins will jam slightly in the slot. This doesn't seem to cause a real problem, but does cause me to wiggle the router slightly until they free up.
My question is, am I doing anything wrong or will the jig pins jam every so often.
Thanks..Joe
I have experimented with a small simple oval. I made my first slot then created a jig with two small, cutoff nails that would ride in the previous slot and guide my router in making the next slot. For the most part, it worked.
I discovered that the first pin/nail in the jig must be even with the router bit. By this I mean if the slots are to be 2' apart, on my jig I draw a straight line 2' from the center of the router bit. I then put the first pin/nail on that line exactly 2' away from the bit. The second pin/nail must also go on this line, but it will be a little further away from the bit. It needs to be close to the first pin/nail; the further they are apart, the more squeezed the lanes will become in the turns; plus the pins will jam in the slot more frequently as the distance between them increases. Both pins will ride in the previous slot, with the second pin (the one further from the bit) trailing behind the cut.
This is all well and good. However, the one problem I seem to be having is the pins will jam slightly in the slot. This doesn't seem to cause a real problem, but does cause me to wiggle the router slightly until they free up.
My question is, am I doing anything wrong or will the jig pins jam every so often.
Thanks..Joe
post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old02-10-2013, 11:39 AMThread Starter
Member
Slot Car Track Router Bits
Location: Oxford
I have my track design, router, bits, MDF and most of what is needed to get started.
However I have a few questions that need to be answered.
1. Should I paint the track surface after routing the guide slot, but before routing the rail slot as the paint thickness could effect rail height ?
2. Upon test fitting the 16 guage wire I will be using for the contact rail, it is evident that there should be some type of adhesive applied in the rail slot before installing the rail. What glue/adhesive etc should be used ?
3. Should the ends of the MDF have a sealer applied to help prevent the material from flaking or coming apart.
My plan is to route the track design directly into the 1/2' MDF table top thereby eliminating the need to cut out the track pieces. The bridge section will be the only piece of track that will be cut from material of 1/4' MDF. Guard rail post made from dowel rods inserted into table with stips of plastic attached to serve as the guard rails.
The power supply is a Pyrimid variable 12 to 18 volt @30 Amps. Track will consist of 6 lanes all of equal length. Each control station to have a 1/4' stereo phone plug for the controller, 4 amp breaker and power indicator lamp. The lap counter and timer will be of the photocell type.
Doing this for the kids at Church . . . . and me too !
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have not built a track in since 1968. You got it, I'm old, retired, and have too much time for playing with cars !
However I have a few questions that need to be answered.
1. Should I paint the track surface after routing the guide slot, but before routing the rail slot as the paint thickness could effect rail height ?
2. Upon test fitting the 16 guage wire I will be using for the contact rail, it is evident that there should be some type of adhesive applied in the rail slot before installing the rail. What glue/adhesive etc should be used ?
3. Should the ends of the MDF have a sealer applied to help prevent the material from flaking or coming apart.
My plan is to route the track design directly into the 1/2' MDF table top thereby eliminating the need to cut out the track pieces. The bridge section will be the only piece of track that will be cut from material of 1/4' MDF. Guard rail post made from dowel rods inserted into table with stips of plastic attached to serve as the guard rails.
The power supply is a Pyrimid variable 12 to 18 volt @30 Amps. Track will consist of 6 lanes all of equal length. Each control station to have a 1/4' stereo phone plug for the controller, 4 amp breaker and power indicator lamp. The lap counter and timer will be of the photocell type.
Doing this for the kids at Church . . . . and me too !
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have not built a track in since 1968. You got it, I'm old, retired, and have too much time for playing with cars !
Last edited by Road Rat; 04-23-2013 at 08:33 PM.